Calle Lanín: Buenos Aires Off the Beaten Path

On the cover of Lonely Planet’s South America on a Shoestring Guide and one of the highlights of any trip to Buenos Aires is the colorful, whimsical, and oh-so-touristy area Caminito. With its brightly-painted buildings and live tango performances, it is a fantastic place for an afternoon of empanada eating and people watching. But—newsflash—most of Buenos Aires is not painted in those vibrant hues, and Caminito is just a small part of La Boca, a working-class neighborhood in the South of Buenos Aires known for its famous club futbol team, Boca Juniors.

In Caminito, the people are numerous and the prices are inflated—but if color is what you are looking for and crowds aren’t your thing, I’ve got the perfect alternative for you.

Calle Lanín, or Lanín Street, is a row of several blocks of small buildings and houses painted under the direction of artist Marino Santa Maria, each bright and unique in their own way. It is within walking distance of Caminito and located in the Barracas neighborhood, and even on the sunny Sunday afternoon of my visit to this off-the-beaten-path spot, we were the only tourists to be seen.

In the quilombo of Buenos Aires, it was incredible and relaxing to experience the peace, tranquility, and art of Calle Lanín, and if you are looking for that perfect, colorful photo and Buenos Aires experience, cut your Caminito visit short and take a stroll to this hidden gem.

Getting there: it is just a quick hop on a colectivo, or city bus, from Calle 9 de Julio, the giant street featuring the towering Obelisko. Take the 45, the 100, or the 60, and get off when you cross Brandsen. 

Wander over on a sunny day with a camera, a smile, and a friend, and get some nearby ice cream when your done. For those who are tired of the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires, this just might be its redemption.